Burgos Cathedral, Spain

Burgos Cathedral is one of the masterpieces of Spanish Gothic and one of the most beautiful churches in the country — a soaring vision of pale stone spires, pinnacles and tracery rising over the old Castilian city of Burgos, on the pilgrim road to Santiago. Begun in 1221 under King Ferdinand III and Bishop Mauricio, and modelled on the great cathedrals of France, it grew over the following centuries into a comprehensive display of the whole evolution of Gothic art, from its pure early lines to the flamboyant, lace-like openwork spires added in the 15th century. In 1984 it became the only Spanish cathedral inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in its own right, honoured as an outstanding record of medieval Castilian art.

What to See

The cathedral’s riches are almost overwhelming. Beneath the beautiful star-vaulted crossing, marked by a slab in the floor, lie the tombs of the legendary knight El Cid and his wife Doña Jimena, Burgos’s most famous citizens. Among the many chapels, the octagonal Chapel of the Constable is a jewel of the late Gothic, with its own openwork star vault, while the gilded Escalera Dorada (Golden Staircase) by Diego de Siloé is so admired that it inspired the grand staircase of the Paris Opera. High on the wall, the curious “Papamoscas” — the Flycatcher — a 17th-century automaton figure, opens his mouth to strike the hours. Add to these the ornate cloister, the carved choir stalls, painted altarpieces and stained glass, and the cathedral becomes a whole museum of medieval and Renaissance art.

How to Get There and Practical Information

Burgos lies in northern Castile and León, on the main routes and high-speed rail line between Madrid and the Basque Country, so it is easily reached by train or bus; the cathedral stands in the heart of the old town, a short walk from the station and the river Arlanzón. Entry is ticketed, usually including an audio guide, with reduced rates for seniors, students and pilgrims on the Camino, and there may be limited free or reduced access at certain times, so it is worth checking in advance. Allow around an hour and a half to take in the chapels, cloister and treasures, and combine your visit with a wander through the arcaded streets of old Burgos, a classic stop on the Camino de Santiago.