Eltz Castle near Koblenz, Germany

Burg Eltz is one of Germany’s most photographed castles, and for good reason: its cluster of turrets and half-timbered gables rises straight out of the forest on a rock almost encircled by the little Elzbach stream, a tributary of the Moselle. Hidden in a side valley about 30 kilometres south-west of Koblenz in Rhineland-Palatinate, the castle has belonged to the same family, the counts of Eltz, for more than 850 years — some 34 generations since the mid-12th century — and it is one of the very few castles on the left bank of the Rhine never to have been destroyed in war. That unbroken continuity, together with its fairy-tale setting, once made it famous enough to appear on the old 500 Deutsche Mark banknote.

What to See

Eltz is a rare example of a Ganerbenburg, a castle shared between several branches of one family, and this is the key to its unusual, tightly packed silhouette: three separate residences — the Rübenach, Rodendorf and Kempenich houses — grew up around a small courtyard, stacking towers and living quarters ever higher on the cramped rock. Much of the interior can be seen on a guided tour, which takes in furnished rooms little changed over the centuries, painted chambers, the medieval kitchen and the great knights’ hall, giving a vivid sense of aristocratic life across some 500 years. A particular highlight is the Treasury (Schatzkammer), displaying goldsmiths’ work, jewellery, weapons and other family heirlooms gathered over many generations. Simply approaching the castle on foot through the wooded valley, its towers appearing suddenly above the trees, is an experience in itself — and the source of the classic photograph.

How to Get There and Practical Information

Burg Eltz lies off the beaten track and takes a little effort to reach, which is part of its charm. Drivers head for the car park at the Antoniuskapelle above the castle, from where it is a short walk downhill (a shuttle bus also runs in season); the castle cannot be reached directly by car. Without a car, the usual approach is by train to Moselkern on the Koblenz–Trier line, followed by a beautiful footpath of about an hour up the Elzbach valley. Eltz is open daily from roughly the start of April to the start of November; the interior can be visited only on a guided tour, offered in German and English, and there is a café and shop on site. As one of Germany’s most popular castles it can be crowded at midday in summer, so an early or late visit is more peaceful — and note that it closes altogether for the winter.