Heidelberg old city, Germany

Heidelberg’s Old Town (Altstadt) is one of the best-preserved historic centres in Germany, stretching for more than a kilometre along the south bank of the River Neckar beneath the wooded slopes of the Königstuhl. Largely spared the destruction of the Second World War, its tangle of cobbled lanes, baroque townhouses and red-roofed churches has looked much the same since the 18th century, when the city was rebuilt after being sacked by French troops in the War of the Palatine Succession. Crowning the scene from the hillside above are the romantic red-sandstone ruins of Heidelberg Castle, while at the heart of the quarter lies the Marktplatz, the oldest square in the city. The Old Town is also the home of Heidelberg University, founded in 1386 and the oldest university in Germany, whose students give the streets their easy-going, youthful buzz.

What to See

The spine of the Altstadt is the Hauptstraße, a pedestrianised promenade running roughly 1.6 kilometres from Bismarckplatz to the Karlstor gate — one of the longest shopping streets of its kind in Europe. Clustered along and around it are the district’s landmarks: the Gothic Church of the Holy Spirit (Heiliggeistkirche), built between 1398 and 1515 and towering over the Marktplatz with its Hercules fountain; the baroque town hall; and the leafy Kornmarkt, framed by a golden Madonna and a picture-perfect view up to the castle. The Old Bridge (Alte Brücke, formally the Karl-Theodor-Brücke), completed in 1788, crosses the Neckar between a pair of neoclassical gate towers and is watched over at its southern end by the Bridge Monkey, a brass figure that visitors rub for good luck. High above, Heidelberg Castle rewards the climb — or a quick ride on the Bergbahn funicular — with its Renaissance courtyards, the colossal Great Tun wine barrel and terraces that survey the rooftops below. On the far bank, the Philosophers’ Walk (Philosophenweg) delivers the classic postcard panorama of castle, bridge and river.

How to Get There and Practical Information

The Old Town sits about 2 kilometres east of Heidelberg’s main railway station (Hauptbahnhof), which has fast trains to Frankfurt and Mannheim. From the station, tram and bus lines run to Bismarckplatz on the western edge of the Altstadt, with buses continuing to stops such as Rathaus/Bergbahn near the market square; once there, the quarter is best explored on foot, as the Hauptstraße and most side streets are car-free. Strolling the Old Town and crossing the Old Bridge are free at any time of day. Heidelberg Castle is ticketed (around €9–10 for adults, typically covering the funicular up, the castle courtyard, the Great Tun and the German Pharmacy Museum). The centre gets very crowded in high summer and during the Christmas market, so an early start or an evening walk makes for a calmer visit.